Dr Danny Goldstein, VP R&D, and Dr Shaher Duchi, Chief Scientist, Tagra Biotechnologies. COSSMA 4/2022, pp. 32–33.

Ethics cosmetics: If you want to present products on markets worldwide, you must be able to respond to the needs of the skin structures of different ethnic groups. But with colour cosmetics in particular, it is difficult to find the right pigment mixtures, especially for darker skin types. Dr Danny Goldstein and Dr Shaher Duchi present a capsule technology that offers great potential.

Developing hybrid cosmetics is a growing trend which has been further driven by the coronavirus pandemic. Consumers are looking for products that offer a range of benefits and save time and money. Blur, BB, and CC creams were the first versions of hybrid cosmetics and now the multifunctional, hybrid, or 2-in-1 product lines represent a new opportunity for innovation in cosmetics.

In addition to hybrid cosmetics, the beauty industry is making more of an effort to be inclusive in its offerings by creating products and, especially, make up tailored to dark skin tone consumers. Finding make up that matches one's skin colour is no small feat. And, if you are a darker-skinned person, finding make up that matches your unique colour complexion is even more of a challenge.

Colour Pigments

Today, pigments typically come in solid, inorganic particulate forms such as iron oxide. These particles are insoluble in formulations, making their incorporation into existing cosmetic products a technically challenging process.

There are four industry-standard pigments used to create colour cosmetics: red, yellow, black, and white. When used in different ratios, formulators can achieve a wide range of shades, but sometimes to create a quality product for darker skin tones, the products require reformulation, and that's where things get complicated.

Pigment-grade titanium dioxide is the most commonly used compound in colour cosmetics to both aid in hiding blemishes and brighten the skin by providing full coverage. But for dark skin tones, it results in a brighter shade which is not deep enough to meet the exact natural dark shade.

Encapsulated Pigments

In special microcapsules(DeeperCaps™) that can be incorporated into many kinds of formulations such as serums, water gels, powders, and cream-based make up, sun care, and skin care products, the pigment is fully shielded by a sophisticated double-layer, cellulose-based polymeric shell. Once applied to skin, the polymeric shell collapses, creating an adhesive film while releasing the pigments with optimal coverage and natural appearance.

Made from zinc oxide (ZnO) and shea butter, the microcapsules exhibit multifunctional properties, by also providing SPF and moisturisation. Additionally, they are environmentally friendly, sustainable and socially conscious. The microcapsules have a high NOI (Natural Origin Index) and they are preservative, surfactant and allergen free.

Conclusion

Such special and innovatively designed capsules open a new dimension of creative possibilities for formulators and product development teams, with the ability to design new ethics-customised formulations and concepts. Since it is difficult, particularly in the colour cosmetics sector, to find well-suited tinted products that match dark-toned skin, this technology can offer good assistance in developing the perfect solution. Such a technology not only contributes to the improved stability and performance of the finished product, but also serves as a tool to differentiate products among the competition.

References

1. DeeperCaps