Microcapsules, liposomes and nanoemulsions are three ways to carry an active ingredient in a cosmetic. Microcapsules are micron-sized particles with a solid shell that protect the active and release it on demand. Liposomes are nano- to micron-sized lipid bubbles that help actives interact with skin. Nanoemulsions are very fine oil droplets that improve clarity and spreading. They solve different problems, so the right choice depends on what you need the delivery system to do.
At a glance
Microcapsules
Liposomes
Nanoemulsions
What it is
A core of active inside a solid polymer shell
A sphere of phospholipid bilayers around a water core
Oil droplets dispersed in water, stabilised by emulsifiers
Typical size
About 1–1,000 µm (micron-sized)
About 50 nm to a few µm
About 20–200 nm
Main job
Protect the active and control when it is released
Help actives interact with skin; carry water- and oil-soluble actives
Make oils clear, light and easy to spread
Protection from oxygen and other ingredients
High: the shell isolates the active
Moderate: bilayers can leak over time
Low to moderate
Release
On demand (rubbing), or gradual, depending on the shell
Gradual, through fusion with skin lipids or leakage
Immediate
Stability in a finished formula
High; sold as a dry powder
Sensitive to surfactants, alcohol, heat and pH
Sensitive to temperature and emulsifier balance
Processing
Add at cool-down, paddle mixing
Usually low-shear, temperature-controlled
Needs high-pressure homogenisation or a precise phase-inversion process
Nano labelling in the EU
Not needed for micron-sized capsules
Needed if the ingredient meets the nanomaterial definition
Usually needed when the droplets are nano-sized
Microcapsules
A microcapsule has a core (the active) and a shell (a polymer wall). The shell is the point: it keeps the active away from oxygen, light, water and the rest of the formula until something breaks it. Depending on the shell, release can be triggered by rubbing, by water, by pH, or happen slowly over time.
Choose microcapsules when the active is unstable (retinol, vitamin C), reacts with other ingredients, needs to be hidden (colour, odour, taste) or should be released at a specific moment, such as colour-changing make-up that releases pigment as it is blended.
Tagra’s microcapsules are cellulose-based, micron-sized, non-nano and microplastic-free. Breakable CelluCaps™ release on rubbing; unbreakable SunCaps™ keep UV filters encapsulated on the skin. See the microencapsulation guide.
Liposomes
A liposome is a hollow sphere made of phospholipids, the same family of molecules found in cell membranes. Water-soluble actives sit in the watery core and oil-soluble actives sit in the lipid layers. Liposomes are valued because their lipids resemble skin’s own and can help actives interact with the skin surface.
Choose liposomes when skin interaction is the main goal and the formula is gentle on lipid structures. Their weak points are stability and protection: surfactants, alcohol, heat and some preservatives can break liposomes, and actives can leak out over shelf life.
Nanoemulsions
A nanoemulsion is an emulsion with droplets so small that the product looks clear or translucent. Nanoemulsions spread easily, feel light and can carry oils into water-based serums and sprays.
Choose nanoemulsions when you want a clear, light texture or a fine spray. They do not shield an active from oxidation much better than a normal emulsion, and they usually need specialised high-pressure equipment to make.
Nano labelling and regulation
Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, an ingredient that meets the definition of a nanomaterial must be listed with “(nano)” after its name, and nanomaterials may need notification before the product is sold. Liposomes and nanoemulsions can fall under this depending on their size and composition. Micron-sized microcapsules do not. Many brands prefer non-nano delivery systems to avoid both the labelling and the consumer concern.
Which one should you choose?
If you need to…
Choose
Stop an active oxidising or yellowing in the jar
Microcapsules
Combine actives that react with each other
Microcapsules
Release an active or pigment at the moment of application
Microcapsules
Avoid “(nano)” on the label
Microcapsules
Help an active interact with skin lipids in a gentle base
Liposomes
Make a clear, light serum or spray from oils
Nanoemulsion
The systems can also be combined: for example, a nanoemulsion serum that also carries encapsulated retinol.
FAQ
What is the difference between microcapsules and liposomes?
Microcapsules have a solid polymer shell that isolates the active and releases it on demand. Liposomes are lipid bubbles that hold actives in a water core or lipid layers and release them gradually. Microcapsules protect better; liposomes are chosen mainly for skin interaction.
Are microcapsules nano?
Not usually. Microcapsules are measured in microns (thousandths of a millimetre). Tagra’s microcapsules are non-nano.
Are liposomes nanoparticles?
Many are. Liposomes range from about 50 nanometres to a few microns. Those that meet the EU nanomaterial definition must be labelled “(nano)”.
Which delivery system is best for retinol?
For stability and gentleness in a finished product, microcapsules: they keep retinol isolated from oxygen and other ingredients until application. See Encapsulated retinol vs retinol.
Are microcapsules microplastics?
Some are. Capsules made from synthetic, non-biodegradable polymers can count as microplastics under EU Regulation 2023/2055. Tagra’s cellulose-based microcapsules are microplastic-free. See the EU microplastics ban in cosmetics.